Oddities, hidden gems and surprises you found on the Olympic Peninsula?

I will be hitting the road for a 10 day road trip that starts in Seattle, goes south to Portland then heads up through the Olympic Peninsula, beaches, rain forest trails, tribal reservations, over to Port Townsend along the 101 and the 112 and finally ending back in Seattle. What have you discovered, loved, not loved, or been surprised by? Favorite trails to hike? Best unknown restaurants? Quirky markets or towns to re-provision? It's been a long time since I've been out that way and would love to hear your stories.

Olympic National Park (Washington)   Neah Bay (Washington)   Port Angeles (Washington)