a VirtualTourist member from Texas
Esta é Jeff, do Texas. Estou indo para Salvador na semana de 7 de fevereiro e uma coisa que eu sempre tento fazer é começar educado na cena local, antes de chegar: o que eu chamo de "os sete". Se algum de vocês VTers poderia me dar apenas uma resposta pouco por todo ou qualquer um dos abaixo - seus favoritos - para Salvador, na Bahia ou no Nordeste.
1. Um livro ... algo que tem a alma não é muito histórica ou seca.
2. Uma Canção ... qualquer clássicos Bahia ou artistas de Salvador que eu poderia encontrar no iTunes ou outro.
3. Uma bebida ... o que os locals bebida. Algo mais locais do que caipirinhas.
4. Um prato ... uma refeição, local tradicional ou comida.
5. Uma palavra / frase ... uma saudação, ou algo exclusivo para o Nordeste ou do Brasil em geral.
6. Um pouco de notícias ... o que está acontecendo na Bahia recentemente (acho que a notícia Dilma é grande a nível nacional). Local / itens nacionais que têm sido notícia.
7. lugar pouco conhecido ... um lugar fora do trajeto onde se pode começar uma sensação real para a cultura (cidade pequena, pequeno clube em Salvador, local de boa música, etc)
Meu Português não é tão bom, eu usei o tradutor do Google para alguns (muito) pode estar incorreta. Sinta-se livre para responder em Português - Estou aprendendo a amar a língua!
PS - Se você quiser ver as coletâneas de outros países, você pode ir aqui - vou acrescentar à coluna da Bahia como qualquer respostas vêm dentro ..
(POST IN ENGLISH) - SORRY SO LONG...
The 7 Ones
This is Jeff from Texas. I'm coming to Salvador the week of 7 february and one thing I always try to do is get educated on the local scene before arriving: what I call 'the seven ones'. If any of you VTers could give me just one little answer for all or any of the below - your favorites – for Salvador, Bahia or the Northeast.
1. A Book... something that has soul not too historical or dry.
2. A Song... any Bahia classics or Salvador artists that I could find on iTunes or otherwise.
3. A Drink... what the locals drink. Something more local than caipirinhas.
4. A Dish... a local, traditional meal or food.
5. A Word/Phrase... a greeting, or something unique to the Northeast or Brazil in general.
6. A bit of news... what is going on in Bahia lately (I guess that Dilma news is big nationally). Local/national items that have been in the news.
7. little-known place... a place off the path where one can get a real feel for the culture (small town, small club in Salvador, good music place, etc)
My Portuguese isn't this good, I used Google translator so some (much) may be incorrect. Feel free to respond in Portuguese - I am learning to love the language!
PS - If you want to see the compilations of other countries, you can go here - I'll add to the Bahia column as any responses come in...
1) Jorge Amado's Bahia de Todos os Santos or Dona Flor e Seus Dois Maridos. The first is a very amusing gude to the city. The second is a real delight. Part of it is set around my old neighbourhood. If you want something more scholarly I'd suggest Antonio Risério's 'Uma Historia da Cidade da Bahia'. For the northeast in general (more PE focused) the best book in English is probably Peter Robb's 'A Death in Brazil' Whilst in town the best bookshop for local works is Livararia Multicampo in R. Direita da Piedade, about 100 metres beyond the Polícia Civil building.
2) Rebolation is infectious. I returned to our apartment in May after two weeks elsewhere in Brazil to find my then 8 month old daughter, standing and swaying to this. Try anything by Margareth Menezes, Dandalunda is probably her biggest hit.
3) Pinga com mel e limão ( ough cachaça with honey and lemon) or straight pinga. Cravinho, at the bar of the same name. It's a mix of pinga with cloves and cinammon. Very morish on those cool days in winter. As indicated most locals have a preference for cheap beer.
4) Lambreta. Clams served with a clear broth. If moqueca is archetypically Afro-Brazilian, then lambreta is archetypically the dish of the city. Eat it at the restaurantas in Mouraria or Ribeira. Moqueca in Plataforma at Boca de Galinha, best and still possibly the cheapest in town.
5) Not unique but I suspect the most common phrases you might hear at least in your first days are 'dá-me algum dinheiro' or if you follow local football 'puta que pariu' or maybe 'porra'. Boa is common, say boa tarde in Salvador and you struggle to get a mirror response, it's just abbreviated to 'boa'. I suppose you could adopt ' ó pai ó' (look) but to be honest I rarely hear that, except maybe amongst paulistas who have seen the film of the same name.
6) See previous poster. Nothing much else happens at this time of year. If you want the local news try this: http://www.atarde.com.br/
7) Outside of town Cachoeira/ São Felix. In town. Anywhere outside of barra and the Pelourinho. Centro, Liberdade, Ribeira etc etc etc. Try a Sunday afternoon at Clube Fantoche in Largo Dois de Julho. Listen to the music at Dona Zuzu's or take the train out as far as Paripe. Plenty of places to go, if you have the time.
The previous replies are very helpful and accurate. In addition, you might care to check out:-
2) Maria Bethania and Caetano Veloso. (Also, more recently, Daniela Mercury).
3) Batida de coco.
I think you're better off with English than with on-line translations!
What happened to the other two posts from bahiana77?
1. Tenda dos Milagres by Jorge Amado
2. Tarde em Itapoa by Vinicius de Moraes
3. cold beer ??
4. acaraje in Largo de Santana, Rio Vermelho, by baiana Dinha
5. 'meu rei', means my king
6. the governor of state of Bahia, Jaques Wagner from PT(the same party of Dima), was reelected
7. the same as item 4, eat an acaraje with beer in Largo de Santana
At the risk of sounding heretical, there's not a great deal of difference between the various vendors of acarajé. Dinha's is good. Tania's is fine, possibly better than Dinha's, if you can stand the usual queues. The acarajé at Cira's has its own following etc etc.
All of these get the write ups in Guia 4 Rodas or Veja or whatever but to be honest they aren't that much different from the stalls in Centro or the ones on the beach at Boa Viagem. If you wander along Av Sete past Praça de Piedade to Praça Barão do Rio Branco you'll find a couple of stalls that serve acarajé every bit as good as the big names and for less than half the price.
Actually this thread reminds me a little of Guia 4 Rodas. They always have a feature per city 'Os 5 Melhores'. Perhaps the OP should study that worthy tome for some inspiration.
I've not seen the address of the acaraje in Guia 4 Rodas, I've been there with a Bahia friend who lives in Rio and we went directly from the airport to Rio Vermelho to eat acaraje and drink beer, and it was nice; it's a good tip for a tourist because you can eat a local food and feel the ambiance, without the risk of getting sick
No criticism intended. As it happens I liek Dinha's. The first time my wife and I went out on a date was to eat there. You will find that most stands are quite clean as they have regular clients, they can't afford to have sick customers, it kills their business as bad news travels fast.